Gliding and Hobbling from Crater Lake to Klamath Falls

If you're not sure how long your pedals will actually be able to propel your bike forward because of a dying freehub, is there any better way to start off your day than with a 10-mile downhill? I don't think so.

Leaving Crater Lake, that's exactly what I had. The southern exit dumped me into the trough of the Klamath Lakes. After a brief dalliance with the fantasy of buying Norris' VW van that was for sale on Modoc Pt. Road, I kept pedaling (when the pedals actually worked) until Klamath Falls and Zach's Bikes.

Who knew that a broken $4.00 spring could turn my sturdy machine into a stationary spinning bike? Well, that's what I discovered. Luckily, the part was in stock... in Nevada. It should be here later today. In the meantime, I was visited by the equivalent of Trail Angels -- Greg and Vivian, who were at the bike shop as well, heard of my predicament and offered me a bed and great companionship at their house. Wow. 

Odell Lake to Crater Lake

It was going to be a shorter day. Really. But then, the north entrance to Crater Lake National Park is 15 miles from the campground, and you can't just ride to the campground when you've come all this way to see one of the wonders of the natural world. And there was a lot of climbing. Again. On this day, thanks go to Jay and Stephanie (and Sean, Rowan, and, of course, Django the dog) from Portland, and to Sheldon in the VW bus for the water and unexpected banana!

The Rim Road around Crater Lake isn't open fully yet, and one of the two campgrounds is still closed because of snow. The parts I rode, however, were spectacular. And hilly.

At the campground, I learned from my Sunset Cove experience and picked up some bug spray. It totally worked. The only niggle as I lay down at about 8:00 pm was whether my freehub would hold out until I reached Klamath Falls and a bike shop the next day. I thought it was unlikely, but I have been reading about the positive qualities of persistence; I would persist until the bike refused to pedal.

Mt. Thielsen across the Pumice Desert 

Somewhere around 7500 ft., you come across this scene...

And then you realize that everyone is looking at this.

Go there. You really can. It's incredible.

Relaxing, with new sneakers! 

Eugene to Odell Lake

Did everyone else know that it's almost all uphill from Springfield to Odell Lake? And that there's really not much in the way of services after Oakridge for the next 30 miles? Well, I wish you would have told me!

Luckily, the Dr. Pepper Samaritan in the overheated Plymouth helped me out, as did the H2O Samaritan from Texas. They literally put me over the Willamette Pass. By the time I reached the Sunset Cove Campground on Odell Lake, I was cooked.

Lowell Reservoir

Something big with snow

The only Oakridge Boy I met

On the road again

Visiting Portland for the first time has been a wonderful experience, and spending time with Rob, Catherine, Sam, and Carsen has been even better. On Monday, I'll start riding again, heading south, eventually to Sacramento and Tiburon.

Tryon Woods

Trying to get somewhere in Portland with Rob

Food truck heaven

At Mt. Hood

Next up...

To Portland

We have 30 lbs. of dried fruit for you! 

Thanks to Barb, Steve, and their son Stan, I started the day with enough dried fruit and Kate's bars to last me the remaining 45 miles into Portland. Their hike along the Pacific Crest Trail came to an early end in Washington state, where the snowpack is still ridiculously deep. Now they're figuring out the logistics of renting a car to pick up all the food and supplies they mailed ahead to points on the trail, then getting home to Idaho Falls. Thanks to their generosity, my ride today was as nutritious as it was scenic. I hope they make it back to try again.

What I thought all of Oregon would be 

A little odd for a bike path, but ok

Looking to the Washington side of the Gorge 

At Horsetail Falls

Vista House at Crown Point 

Fresh from the backyard 

Oregon - Washington - Oregon

Morning light on some of the hills

I knew that today's ride would be shorter, since the wind was forecast to really start blowing from the west. And blow it did.

That's not normal

Apparently, the weather was perfect for windsurfing. I stopped to talk to a couple people getting ready to go out on the water, and one remarked as I rode up that that (biking) didn't look like fun. On the Columbia, there were dozens of windsurfers riding the waves.

I struggled to stay upright on the bike, but I would have struggled more on a board, I'm sure. Stopping for lunch in Lyle gave me some energy to push onward, and I ended up by white-knuckling it over the grated Bridge of the Gods into Cascade Locks, Oregon. I'll reach Rob and Catherine's place in Portland tomorrow, unless there's an all-day special on breakfast burritos in town here. Or discount pedicures. Or a spa catering to exhausted bikers.

Looking eastward on the Columbia River

Not a whole lot of level ground

Notice how the Washington highway budget shrinks...

Holy [insert favorite expletive here], Batman! What Happened to Your Shoes?

And then there was one

Of all the things to lose, a shoe is seemingly insignificant. I have another pair that I wear while riding, so it's not that one foot will go without; no, it's more the knowledge that I've carried these shoes on the back of the bike for 1700 miles, and now that I'm within a couple hundred miles of Portland, one of them decides to jump off. I blame Google. If Google Maps hadn't sent me up and down a few rockslides masquerading as "roads," my feet would be happy in their comfy shoes right now. So, if you're out rock climbing on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, please let me know if you find a worn, lone, green shoe.

It was 60 miles this morning from Richland to the first place with any water. As the temperature climbed towards the high 90s, I was very happy to reach the Roosevelt mini-mart. And when I did, imagine my surprise at seeing a loaded bamboo mountain bike outside. Inside was David, from Tél Aviv, who is on a trip that started in San Diego, followed the Pacific Crest Trail, and now is bringing him to the East Coast. Having planned, but never yet realized, traverses of the US by plane and automobile, he's now actually doing it by bike. On a bike that he built. Completing the HLC and Red to Dead on his bike gave him inspiration that he could really make a go of it across the US.

Location of today's flat tire 

Google's idea of a joke (the 2nd sign says, "Primitive Road: No Warning Signs") -- 1st of many today! 

Columbia River Gorge 

Just below John Day Dam

Gravel the size of softballs 

In Biggs Jct, OR, tonight. If I open the window, I might hear the Santana concert across the river. Or maybe I'll be asleep.